Tuesday, September 18, 2007

Living Wild

Living wild
By JACKIE FERNANDEZ
Lush greenery, pristine beaches, amazing views and close proximity to Kuching make the Permai Rainforest Resort an ideal getaway.
As a self-confessed city slicker too dependent on her mod-cons, I was intrigued by the idea of spending the night in a treehouse at the Permai Rainforest Resort in Damai Beach, Santubong, Sarawak.
Originally set up as an Outward Bound School in 1990, the resort lies on 18ha, close to the popular Damai Beach and the legendary Mt Santubong about 35km south of Kuching.
The drive down is in itself a treat for the senses! You cannot help but stare at the expansive greens, dotted with the vibrant colours of local flora and makeshift stalls selling iced drinks, fresh coconuts and fish.

Excitement in the jungle: Samsiyah walking “among” the trees.The view ahead is dominated by the majestic Mt Santubong, which starts off as a tiny anthill in the distance and rapidly dominates the skyline as you approach Damai Beach.
Santubong is not only beautiful but also full of history. Local legend tells the tale of two sisters, Puteri Santubong and Puteri Sejinjang, who died after a bitter feud and turned into the two mountains – Mt Santubong and Mt Sejinjang.
At a certain angle, Mt Santubong resembles the profile of a lady lying on her side. British explorer Sir Alfred Wallace made an expedition to Santubong in 1854 and it is his findings that are the basis of Darwin’s theory of evolution.
Just past the Sarawak Cultural Village is the entrance to the Permai Rainforest Resort.
Upon arrival, we were greeted by pleasant staff members at a wooden log cabin-style reception area. A wooden boardwalk through the forest leads to the resort.
As I made my way on the boardwalk, I could hear the sounds of waves lapping on the shore and the twittering of birds in the forest – a world away from the hustle and bustle of Kuching which we left behind just 45 minutes ago.
In keeping with its surroundings, the resort bills itself as an eco-resort.

The treehouses.“Nature is the reason most people come to Borneo. In our own way, we are trying to do our part to conserve the forests around us. We want to encourage people to appreciate our surroundings, not destroy them,” explains Rahim H. Bugo, Permai Rainforest Resort manager.
He adds that at the resort, development is minimal. The resort doesn’t interfere with the area’s eco-system and wildlife. It doesn’t encourage or feed the wildlife such as wild boars, otters, silver leaf and proboscis monkeys that are sometimes spotted in the area.
I made my way to my lodging while hoping to catch sight of a monkey. Arriving at the treehouse was quite an eye-opener – literally!
Being a little vertically challenged, I had to crane my neck to locate the entrance to the room, which stood three flights of stairs above me!
It didn’t have the mod-cons such as television, telephone and Internet access, but beautifully polished wooden floors, floor to ceiling windows and a balcony that gives you an amazing view of the surrounding forest.
Instantly, you feel all warm and at home in your surroundings.
The balcony was a treat. From this lofty perch, I was eye-level with the towering trees.

A cabin room.If you’re scared of heights, the resort also offers accommodation closer to ground level. There are single-storey cabins, a double-storey cabin and even a campsite for those who want to get back to basics. Cabins are clean and well laid out offering guests complete privacy as they are set far apart. Each cabin offers the chance to appreciate the wonders of the rainforest in comfort.
The resort’s restaurant is another delightful pit stop. Perched on a little hill, with a terrace overlooking the South China Sea, the Café serves a selection of local and Western delicacies. The gentle pace and the warm ambience all make for a conducive environment for deep thought. But it didn’t take long for this city slicker to be distracted by the inviting sounds of the sea below her.
The resort, known for its activities, welcomes groups who come for team-building excursions and adventure holidays. All the activities are supervised by a team of trained instructors and safety is paramount.
The resort organises trips to Bako National Park, Satang Island, Sungai Salak mangrove swamp as well as dolphin-watching expeditions.
Other activities include a high-rope obstacle course, wall climbing, rappelling, low-rope course, night walks and kayaking.
It is on these kayaking trips that you might spot native birds such as the white bellied sea eagles, kites, gulls and Rhinoceros hornbills, as well as turtles, otters, dolphins and even a crocodile or two.

Crocodiles are part of the wildlife.The night kayak trip takes you out to the picturesque Teluk Belian at the end of the Santubong peninsula. It is said that the water lights up as you paddle in the dark. I am told that disturbing causes the plankton to give off light – creating a beautiful luminous effect.
After contemplating all the activities available, I opted for the least physically demanding one – spending the evening on my balcony listening to the sea and the sounds of the forest around me. I promised myself that I would be more adventurous in the morning!
Sweating it out
Next morning, with renewed energy, I wandered down to the high-rope obstacle course where I met Lanny Ladong, the resort’s head instructor.
The 10-element obstacle course is quite a daunting prospect but Lanny, who designed the course, assured me that thousands have done the course. It takes an experienced person just 20 minutes to complete it, though one guest once took over two hours!
Elements include canyon walk, monkey crawl, high postman walk, wobbly log, chicken walk, tramline and, of course, the popular Jacob’s Ladder or “highway to heaven” from which you can “fly” down to the ground with the flying fox.
Reality (and fear) set in when I realised the sheer height of some of the elements which comprised just two bars and a series of ropes. At its highest point, the course stands 27m above sea level.
I decided to play it safe and watch instead as Lanny and instructor Sabri Jai put volunteers Samsiyah, Jaafar, Reekson and Alvin through their paces on the obstacle course. After their safety briefing, the group were kitted out with their safety harnesses.
While the experienced Sabri made it look so easy, first-timer Alvin found it tough going at times especially when he had to crawl on all fours across two beams dubbed the “monkey crawl”. Unanimously, they all agreed that their favourite was the 63m-long flying fox.

You can ponder the sea from the Café. — PERMAI RAINFOREST RESORT & JACKIE FERNANDEZMy next stop was the jungle pool at the resort which is filled with ice-cold stream water from the mountain. Perfect to relax in after a hard morning’s physical activity or in my case, watching others sweat it out!
It is easy to see why locals and tourists love it here – the unpolluted air and the lush greenery are indeed a welcome change from the concrete jungle.
Rahim sums it up best: “The place has its own charm and character. My job is just to provide the opportunity for people to come here and enjoy it.
“We have a lot of returning guests to the resort – some from as far away as Sweden, the UK and US. We have one family from West Malaysia that comes back to the resort three times a year,” he says.
o For more information, visit http://www.permairainforest.com/ or call (082) 846 490/487 for reservations.

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